Achieve - Take control - Become a gentle leader - See success quickly - Take the leap - So simple it's brilliant - Safe & Gentle methods that Most dogs respond to - The sooner you start the easier! - Avoid common mistakes...
~Louise Taylor
Thank You for reading - I'm excited to share with you the simple and easy to follow techniques of how I get my dogs & the dogs I work with to heel, learn to focus on me! & Build solid recall. What you will find here is an enjoyable way to get from where you are to where you want to be!
I don't remember a time when I wasn't an animal lover. First it was cats, then horses and then dogs. My first dog was Penny, a border collie x blue heeler, a rescue from the SPCA. So many things I know now I wish I had known then. Let me show you what I wish I'd known 27 years ago. The more we know and understand about our canine family members, whether it's your first or your tenth, the better life we can provide for them. My young dog now has the best of me! Let me help you give your dogs the best of you, so that you in turn get the best of them!
Terrylynn Bailleul
I've worked with rescue organizations, run a successful dog walking & Boarding business, Completed my courses to be a "Therapy and Service dog trainer." Aswell as completed Animal welfare & Behavior courses. During the course of my experience I've worked with a few hundred dogs...
Every dog, like us, is unique, from puppy hood, different backgrounds and genetics. Some have had a solid beginning and others haven't been quite as fortunate. I've had rescue dogs as adults and puppies. As well as puppies that have had solid starts. In this book I'll share some of the best techniques I've relied on over the past fourteen years while working with many different dogs. This is what has worked during the course of my experience for most dogs.
From my first dog Penny when I was 13, to working with several rescue dogs and a few dog rescue organizations over the years, to my second dog Aspen, to my third Missy who we had to say goodbye to earlier this year she is "The dog of my ❤️". My fourth dog is Nala who is three years and 5th and my 1st male puppy is Rayne he is 5 months (My calmest, chillest puppy yet) "MY GIFT". Along with running a successful dog business out of Calgary, AB, and my training/ behavior business now. I have 15+ years experience & education.
I reside in Okanagan, British Columbia, Canada with my husband Jeremy. We live on a small acreage. I'm passionate about becoming as self sustainable as possible over the next few years. I love to garden but still have lots to learn. I love getting my hands dirty and being outside. I belong outdoors! I love to hike and explore & am always up for an adventure.
Terrylynn Bailleul
Unknown
Some special pictures of my dogs over the years. Aspen my Australian Shepard, Missy when she was a puppy and their good friend Eddie a beautiful husky. Aspen, Eddie and Missy have since passed. Nala with the pink harness laying in the grass watching the world go by. Missy and Nala shortly after we brought Nala home. Me and Aspen when she was a young dog hiking in the Kananaskis & of course Rayne our newest addition to our family he is currently 5 months old.
CHAPTER One
One of the questions I have come across many times from families with dog(s) is when should I start training? Or often, for families who have a rescue dog, is my dog too old?
When should I start training my puppy or dog?
In this book I will cover some key things you can implement to create a solid foundation for you and your dog(s). Many people have the misconception that eight week old puppies can't be trained, so they put training on the back burner.
Training should not overwhelm the young puppy or any new addition to the family. You don't need to do everything all at once and training should be taken in slow, conscious steps. In saying this training still needs to start NOW!
When I am working with a new client and I am doing up a training plan for them, their dog and family, I realize that it can be a lot of information. I understand this and will go through it with each of my clients. I also remind them that I am not asking for them to do everything all at once. We take it one step at a time. My job is to create a plan for them and their dog. My job is also to help them work through that plan and make revisions where necessary.
When I bring my eight week old puppies home I start with - house breaking, crate training, building trust, socialization (slow and steady find a socialization check list at the end of this book) sit, down, stay, and waiting politely for food. I then move onto umbilical work after the puppy is settling in the home, forming bonds with me and my husband. This is typically the 16 to 20 week mark (NOTE: some puppies like my Nala I was able to begin Umbilical at 10 weeks, other puppies like My Rayne I did very little up until 16 weeks) Its important to strive and gauge where your dog is at and when they are ready for more. If I had an older dog, a rescue or a dog that is new in the home, I would give them time to settle, build trust and find their footing in their new life. I would also explore what training they have had previously and what training they might need and start formulating a plan.
After the first two to eight weeks of having a new dog in your home, depending on the dog's background, for instance if there is any trauma, you might need to give your dog more time to adjust before diving into more training & learning for you and your dog. I would introduce umbilical work and ground work when the time is right. Even if you have a dog that is an adult past the puppy years, you can still work with them and teach them and guide them. It's not too late! Sometimes its easier to work with an adult dog three to four years old as they are past the puppy stage. Other times, depending on the dogs history, it might take a bit more commitment and patience.
In the following pages and chapters I am going to be focusing on one of the main techniques that I use. Which is the "Umbilical Method". This is a method of using either an umbilical leash or a plain 6 to 8 foot leash looped around your waist. It can be used to achieve a variety of training, behavior and redirection needs. As well as nurturing your bond and building connection with your Dogs. In this book I am addressing the main uses for umbilical work. My goal is for you to see and understand how it works in a variety of areas. My three videos will also demonstrate how I use this method.
Before I continue I would like to address something very important and something that I would like readers to keep in mind. I am a huge advocate for umbilical work however I have seen it done in excess and heard of people with good intentions who do this round the clock or for several hours at a time. This is NOT a good idea. Everything in moderation. Slow and Steady...
For any type of training we first need to be conscious of our dogs limits. For every dog this is going to look a little different. One measure I use is if a dog has been doing really well then suddenly is being difficult or tuning out. Likely the mental limit for that dog has been reached and its time to take a break. If you know your dog and their limits you can take a break before they reach their limit. Puppies have a shorter attention span than adult dogs, so training duration can be increased as they mature.
Umbilical training can be very valuable but should NEVER be overdone. I have four rules to manage this:
Rule #1
If you have a puppy under 6 months a maximum of 1 hour a day. This can be broken up throughout day.
Rule #2
This can be extended to 1.5 to 2 hours if it encompasses walks.
Rule #3
Over 6 months I wouldn't do it more then 2 hours a day. Again, this can be broken up throughout day.
Rule #4
Like rule #2 unless of course it includes walks & hikes. Then it can be extended.
Areas where I always use umbilical to teach my puppies and dogs to follow my lead...
#1 Young Children - When my puppy Nala was eight weeks old those puppy teeth scared my little niece. On the flip side Nala really loves my niece. However Nala isn't around children very often, she has needed to learn how to be calm around them. When she has seen my niece she has wanted to play. I put Nala on my waist so that everyone feels safe and secure and I can help Nala learn to be calm around children. I love my pup but I am aware that she can be overwhelming as she has a very excitable temperament. I am aware of this so I take the necessary steps to work with her and guide her.
#2 If my dog needs to build up confidence in a particular area I keep her attached to me in order to show that there isn't anything to be nervous of. If I have been working on umbilical training in situations that she or other dogs I am working with are comfortable in first, then I move to situations where they need to build their comfort and confidence. I've already set a solid base. However keep in mind to not allow your dog to get too overwhelmed. Always remove your dog from overstimulating situations and build up to them.
#3 If you have a dog and have met their needs, they have been properly run and had the appropriate mental stimulation that day and you find they are still not calming down or they are having energy bursts later in the day, putting them onto umbilical is a great way to help them get to a place of calm and grounding.
Umbilical teaches our dogs that "we got this!" to look to us and follow our lead.
CHAPTER Two
Engagement! Engagement! Engagement!
Connection! Connection! Connection!
https://www.letsgok9.ca/post/engagement-connection
Engagement and building connection with our dogs has a lot to do with having fun with our dogs which nurtures our bonds and creates a strong relationship of mutual respect and understanding.
Is there anything more fun than playing with a new puppy? For me that is one of lifes greatest joys, whether its a game of tug, throwing a ball in the backyard or going on a walk and watching them discover new things. As wonderful as a new puppy is there is work that comes with this new little bundle, from housebreaking to crate training to ground work; sit, down, stay, manners, recall etc. Before we pick up those cute little puppies, we have dreams of them being that perfect companion. However we sometimes forget about the work involved when we are wrapped up in the dream. We need first to give them and learn to give them what they need, as they mature so they can grow into that wonderful companion. When we dont meet their needs, the dreams can become a nightmare!
MEET THEIR NEEDS 1ST!
Reach out to me to learn how.
#1 If you have brought home a young puppy it's your responsibility to ensure that your puppy is well socialized safely between eight and twenty weeks. This is the most critical stage for teaching, learning and development. Your pup needs to be exposed to a variety of people, dogs & environments. If you don't do this, your puppy is likely to have a variety of struggles down the road. That can be very challenging to overcome.
Start off right!!!
#2 If you have rescued a dog or adopted a dog past the puppy stage then hopefully your dog was well socialized especially with other dogs. If your dog has missed out on socialization all is not lost but it can certainly make things more challenging!
You may need to contact a trainer who works with Behavior or a Behaviorist for direction and advice. Every dog who has missed out on proper puppy socialization CAN NOT be socialized the same way! Every dog is unique depending on breed, genetics, any trauma, temperament, fears etc. Which for many dogs present with fear aggressive responses. I deal with training, behaviors, negative responses on an individual basis. Understanding what your dog needs is the first step to overcoming this challenge. {I offer zoom consults with training plans as well as one on one training throughout - Okanagan, British Columbia, Canada}
#3 Your puppy needs to learn Self Regulation! A dog that can't self regulate is very challenging to live with and will have a lot of internal struggles including unwanted emotional responses, potentially towards a variety of situations, exhibiting high anxiety. What is Self Regulation? It's when a dog can learn to choose to be calm and control their responses. The main way that this is learned is through crate training. A puppy learns that they are safe in their crate, they learn not to cry in their crate so they are controlling their emotional responses. They are safe and find security in themselves as well as building confidence in their people and can feel safe when left. There are other ways or other things that contribute to a puppy or dog learning to self regulate. This is the most basic, most widely used and in my opinion the most vital.
https://www.letsgok9.ca/post/crate-training
#4 They need appropriate exercise for their age and breed. A puppy or dog that can't run off their energy is a dog that can't properly focus on you. If you haven't first given them what they need then you can't expect them to give you what you need. Their needs first, your needs second! If you have chosen a high energy dog or a puppy (who needs lots of energy and commitment!) and you are not able to meet their needs or arent a high energy person, then you have chosen the wrong dog. This isn't fair for you or the dog! There is a dog out there for everyone! Choose the right one for you and learn about what that breed and dog needs!
#5 Mental Stimulation (also known as Enrichment) is one I come across time and time again. This is the one that seems to get missed the most. Our dogs need their minds challenged through playing with us, other dogs, or on their own with mentally stimulating toys and exercises. There are so many ways to mentally stimulate our dogs and puppies. Its a very long and exhaustive list, and needs to be catered to the dog in front of you. I'll give a few suggestions; puppy puzzles, a game of tug with you (there is a right and a wrong way to play tug), I love playing "the cup game". Where I hide treats under plastic cups, then ask my dogs to sit and wait until I say "GO!". Then my dogs race each other to uncover the most cups with food under them. This is great as a cold weather game or if your dogs have a burst of evening energy. Teaching a dog a new skill or trick a week is great for challenging their minds. Every dog requires various amounts of mental stimulation. Know your breed! Know your dog!
#6 Ground work: Your dog needs to be taught sit, down, stay, manners. They need to learn self restraint which overlaps into self regulation. Our dogs need to be guided and taught how to behave and what we are asking of them, so that they can learn to make good choices.
#7 Engagement and Connection. Have fun with your new puppy or dog. Interact with them calmly and excitedly. Calm when you are all curled up. Teach them the word and emotional state of "Calm". Create excitement when you are training them and walking with them. When they do what you are asking or they do what you want when you're not asking, praise praise praise, followed by a treat or a toy (depending on what your dog is motivated by). You are showing them that you are the most interesting and that everything that is good comes directly from you.
Umbilical Training and Teaching "Heel"
"Umbilical" is a tool I have found to be invaluable over the years. It hits and addresses so many areas of building your relationship and creating calm, clear communication with your canines that can benefit you, your dogs and puppies.
What you need
A dog or puppy
A 6 or 8 foot leash
Preferably a Harness
High value treats or a toy reserved for training (depending on what motivates your dog)
I start with basic umbilical work around the house and yard when I feel like my puppy or new dog is ready. Remember this is when we need to KNOW our dogs... what the right age for one puppy might be like My high drive dog NALA isn't always right for your next puppy like my lower drive dog RAYNE. I can always help figure this out! You may find that you need to wait a bit longer or make necessary adjustments for you and the dog in front of you as there is so much variance in breeds, intelligence, maturity, temperament needs, & genetics.
I am always available to do zoom consults and training plans and can help in figuring out what is best for you and your dogs. To book a consult please visit my website letsgok9.ca
The following is a short video that will demonstrate teaching "Heel" using the umbilical method
As you see in the video Nala follows me. When we first began heel training at 16 weeks it took her 20 minutes until she was heeling. That by no means is saying she was perfect! She still did and still does need some refinement, and our work with our dogs is a life long commitment to them, it should become part of your lifestyle. I find with all training it can be 3 steps forward 1 step back. We all, including our dogs, have on days and off days. If you're having an off day your dog likely is also. So just keep moving forward, have fun and persevere. It is pretty easy to get to where I am showing you in the video. Once you get here the next step is to get your dog focused on you and following you with and without distractions, either walking with another dog or training alongside other dogs.
One of my favorite ways to train heel on and off leash is to utilize pylons or trees or any series of stationary objects and have your dogs follow your lead. When my dog is heeling on my left and the tree I'm weaving around is on my right side my dog turns into me. When the tree is on my dogs left side I turn into my dog. I can weave through the trees or I can do a full circle on each tree that I'm weaving around and through. If you can do these exercises with friends and other dogs then you are setting your dogs up for success!
Umbilical Training and Teaching "Focus"
Teaching our dogs to focus on us is invaluable and can be used over their lifetimes in a variety of situations. It can help our dogs to be calm in stressful situations, helping reactive dogs (fearful and excitable) to ignore what's going on around them and to focus on us. It is also beneficial in nurturing connections with our dogs.
Teaching "focus" begins with umbilical work around the house, when my puppies are ready. If you have a high drive dog they are going to be ready sooner then if you have a lower drive dog, each puppy and dog is different and we need to adjust and be fluid with each one. I train with a word and a hand signal at the same time. I have found this to be invaluable. I start with a closed fist to my chest as you saw in my video. I begin with putting a treat in my fist. I later wean off the treats in fist and continue with a closed fist or flat hand. I give a lot of treats at first and do this for a month or so and then I do it every other time weaning off to every 3rd time, 4th time etc... If your dog goes backwards. You may have weaned off treats too quickly. Increase the treats again and consider using a different high value treat. When I use treats in training I like to rotate three or four high value treats to keep it interesting for our dogs. I may wean off the treats but I NEVER wean off the engagement or the praise! I always find other ways to reward my dogs. Our dogs always need a motivation. When working with a high food driven dog and you have weaned off the treats I would treat at the end of your walks and change how you reward them for the long term. If you have a toy motivated dog a bit of play at the beginning or end of the walks is something to consider.
When I'm walking and working with my dogs and my dog looks up at me whether I've asked them to or not I praise and treat. I know some dogs train better with a toy, but for this it's a lot easier and smoother to find a treat they can't get enough of! Make it fun! Get excited! Show you're excited! "GOOD GIRL!" & treat. When working on "focus" we need to acknowledge when our dogs look up at us. If they are not paying attention to you and you need them to and/or you are working on "Focus", closed fist to chest, Say: "FOCUS" when they do look up at you or sit focused on you, with or without asking "praise & treat." Make the training fun, exciting and engaging.
The power of the word "Good," "Yes," or using a clicker.
When I am training it doesn't matter what we are working on, my dogs know that when I say "Good" they have done what I want. At the start they understand a treat is coming. However when treats are decreased our dogs still need to understand when they are doing what we expect. They need to know it in the moment, so that the behavior or response that we are seeking is shaped.
Another thing which I've found with some dogs I've worked with is as soon as they get praised they lose focus. They think, "Oh, I don't need to listen any more..." They have been distracted by the excitement of our praise. The dogs always need to get something in exchange when we are training with them. They teach us what they need and we are showing them what we need. Give and take! When it's not give and take we will have struggles, and won't reach our goals. We will not have the relationship we are seeking with our dogs. Most dogs engage as you train and get excited. Keep it fun! However there will be some dogs that I would suggest you play with first, then train. You may find it appropriate to praise and treat at the end. Another option for dogs that get distracted by praise is to calmly praise and treat as you train. You always need to give to them but adjusting the when and the how in this exchange can vary depending on each dog.
Umbilical Training & Recall.
Building a strong recall with your dog
Using umbilical training method to aid in building strong recall.
When a reactive dog has learned first not to bolt out the front door and to wait patiently for food, they have already learned restraint. They are building muscle memory. This learned restraint is a building block for them to learn calm in situations that are challenging. The same goes for recall! They have already learned to look towards you for guidance and direction and are far more likely to come back! If they have learned to follow your body language, verbal and non verbal cues then they naturally learn to keep you in their sights.
Going back to the "Heel" and "Focus" training; this carries over into recall training but here I'm going to discuss the importance of encouraging you and your dogs to focus more on your body language than your words.
Body language vs. words. Both are important! Both have a place. If we are going to learn for ourselves how to teach our individual dogs, I believe it wise for us as their people to pay closer attention to how they naturally learn. With this focus we can also learn how our dogs communicate with us. Thereby creating a stronger relationship and connection.
When you intitally start umbilical training (1st 1 to 2 weeks) around the house or yard, don't talk to your dog when they are attached to you. They will watch you and learn your non verbal cues. When you move they will learn to follow beside you. This carries over into setting boundaries. A dog that is checking in with you and is focused on you will listen to your direction and guidance.
JUST DON'T FORGET TO ALSO BE LISTENING TO THEM!!!
When working with a young puppy, nurture your bond and connection daily. Make them see you're the most amazing person around and that you're more exciting then anything else they might come across, be it dogs or people. Your dog is learning to value you and your relationship above everything else. Keep their lives fun! Be fun! Be exciting! Also be a source for calm. Praise and reward calm. With puppies I would do short intervals with the umbilical around the house. It can be 10 min, 20, or 30. I wouldn't do more then 20 min at a time before they are 4 months old, you may find starting with 5 min and slowly increasing your intervals may be best for your dog.
Practice recall in quiet safe places like an enclosed yard or enclosed park. You can practice around other dogs when you are ready go to the parks. Take thoughtful steps if you're worried about the recall. Keep your pup on a long lead either attached to you or dragging so you don't lose your pup. However you still need to work up to a place where you give your pup the opportunity to show you that they can come when called, that they are watching you and paying attention and they won't take off. Building trust both ways is critical to building a strong recall.
My dog had good recall and now they don't?
Or my dog is ignoring me?
Why?
There are likely a few reasons for this. One is your dog has excellent recall without distractions and you need to work with your dog in situations where you can start with small distractions and build up. You also need to work with your dog through play and what motivates them. Remember you need to be the most important thing to them! More than other people, dogs, etc...
Another reason is when we talk to our dogs too much, they tune us out. When they tune us out, recall and other things we verbally ask of them gets lost in the noise. This is a huge reason why teaching our dogs with and without words and nurturing their natural instincts to tune into our body language is so important! If they need to watch us to know what is expected of them their recall should follow. If your dog has tuned you out then decrease or cut off talking altogether except for the odd request for 1 to 2 weeks. Use strictly hand signals if you can. When you resume talking to them again they are going to perk right up!
90% of the time I tell my clients to "Engage and Connect" with their dogs. However when our dogs have tuned us out it can be appropriate to disengage rather then engage in some cases. As we wait for them to choose to engage. Think of it this way. Our dogs are tuning us out when we call them. Do they know we are calling them? do they understand? are they hearing us? You will need to answer these questions. As long as our dogs are safe, and we have called them once or twice (you may choose not to call them at all). I would sit down and simply wait for them to come to us. Most dogs will come to you if you have a relationship with them, they want to be with us. So wait, let them do their thing. This is a great thing to practice in a safe enclosed space. You sit and you wait. When they come to you, you praise and reward. I would practice this again and again every day until their recall is SOLID! the waiting time for them to come should be less and less... until their isn't any.
{During the time you have stopped talking to your dog you can work on hand signals and body language. When you do resume talking to your dog again you may consider choosing a new word for "come." Another suggestion is "here" or you could even consider working on recall with a whistle. }
Probably one of the most common which I feel gets missed a lot! is its not a recall issue at all!? It might be a Threshold issue. Some dogs have a high Threshold like My Rayne who I think will be able to handle just about any trigger thrown his way... then their are low threshold dogs like My girl Nala who are triggered and overwhelmed very easily. When they go into FIGHT, FLIGHT, or FREEZE they cant think! they cant respond. They are frozen! They cant accept food or play. No amount of CALLING them will work! This is an argument for E-collars and although I dont use them, I do on occasion see the benefit to them for some dogs and situations it can be appropriate. However only after the ground work has been put in and you have a solid relationship.
Another approach if its a threshold struggle is "Play and Train", impulse games and teaching our dogs "Calm". These things all help! and will work towards helping our dogs increase their levels of tolerance and ability to respond in triggering situations.
Whistle recall I use one whistle as another method of training or encouraging "Focus" and two whistles for "Come" this is an excellent training tool. If your dog knows the word "Come" already, then I would say "Come" then blow the whistle. My dogs friend Keisha was whistle trained before Nala. When we were out hiking Nala picked up on the meaning of the whistle very quickly and now I am able to use it at night when I can't see my dogs on their last bathroom break when they are up in our trees. I like having a few tools at my disposal and not just relying on one thing all the time.
Something to keep in mind for all recall work is that if you get your dogs attention but they haven't come as you have asked, but have looked up at you, then you can build on the recall in steps. Praise them for looking at you, often this will get them excited to come to you. If you can get them excited to come this will be an excellent stepping stone in building a strong recall. It's not wrong to praise progress and as you praise progress increase your reward of food or toys.
"The Road to my heart is filled with Paw Prints"
What DOESN'T WORK FOR RECALL! Chasing. Don't chase your dog. A dog who is chased is either going to get scared or turn it into a game. Neither will help you or your dog. Hopefully you are aware of this possibility and you have either a high value treat or they are on a long lead and you can put them onto umbilical right away. Most dogs will follow you if you turn your back and walk away. It's natural for them to stay with you!
For all training recall, heel, sit, stay etc... DON'T OVER-REPEAT! Example: If you have said come twice with NO recognition or response from your dog, take a break sit and wait for them to respond (if in a safe place) and put them onto umbilical if you are able to walk up to them without chasing them or they come to you after you have sat down. If we keep saying come come come come or sit sit sit sit! they will tune us out!
All work with our dogs should be FUN for all of us. That alone will foster a strong relationship and a well rounded dog.
Socialization Checklist
socialization challenge for dogs.docx
Socialization is so so important!!! I cant stress this enough. The most challenging thing that I get approached with on a semi regular basis is dogs having very strong emotions and responses and reactivity challenges, or are shut down. Simply due to that fact that they were not exposed to things as a young puppy. Your window to Socialize your dog is 8 to 20 weeks. After this it is Behavior modification and often a long process to address what hadn't been addressed when they were small. Think of it this way. If you have a child and you keep that child away from other children from a young age until they are preteen or teenagers. What is that going to do to that child? Also socialization isn't meeting every dog in the neighborhood or every person. Sometimes its letting the puppies simply observe from a distance. Watch your puppies take them away if they are NOT comfortable. SLOW AND STEADY. Let them have a few play dates that are supervised. Keep experiences positive! Go on leash walks with other people and dogs... expose but NEVER Overwhelm! pick a new experience every other day and increase new experiences as they get closer and closer to 20 weeks.
Another important point to address is that socialization begins in their litters.
Very few people know the answers to this? However if you do Great!
How were they raised? were they outside? inside? did they know what grass was, rocks, water... how varied was their experiences when with their mothers. Were they handled by children. Were they the cuddly one? the independent one? the Feisty one? what were their parents like? the more of these questions you can answer and that you know the easier everything is going to be.
What did their interactions within their litter look like?
Rayne was the first puppy I had the opportunity to observe his litter and how he interacted before choosing him. I asked the breeder for the calmest, most confident male puppy. She directed me to Rayne. These were my Observations: His brother stole his bone, Rayne walked away. Another brother had him pinned Rayne wiggled out and walked away. Another thing I found interesting was that he would separate himself from his litter mates and just lie down and stair up at me... He loves to play! but has an independent nature. All of the things I observed he has continued. He is very NON contentious, he is not submissive or dominant he is calm. I have continued his Socialization and he is SOLID! not to mention a naturally focused puppy. He isn't perfect HAHAHA but I would say pretty darn close...
Nala I picked before meeting her so I didn't see her interactions until we picked her up. She too has lived up to what I observed the first day we met her... She was the smallest, feistiest puppy, and she was 1st at everything... she ruled the roost... & she still does. Not my most favorite quality but that's our Nala She has a very high drive and is motivated by many things! she loves going to the park and working with me... training with me... playing games with me... she loves to please and is absolutely brilliant... Not my easiest dog, but she is very special and loving and an absolute sweetheart. Just takes a bit more energy lol... Often our best qualities are also challenges in different ways.
Dive Deeper
Contact me to explore how to increase your understanding of the dog in front of you and how to give your puppies and dogs everything they need to be the happiest and best dog for you!
From guidance to mental stimulation to daily exercise.
Contact me to learn about my new upcoming programs. Book a consult and have a program specifically designed for you and your dogs needs.
Services offered via Zoom and Lavington, BC
Terrylynn Bailleul
Letsgok9.ca
I would like to thank you for reading my E-book and I hope you found it beneficial and learned some things from it that will add to the richness of your relationship you have with your dogs.
I would like to briefly talk about something I am very passionate about.
Every dog has different needs. There is a dog out there for everyone. We owe it to our dogs, to us and our families to choose the best dog for our lifestyle (from breed, temperament, energy level, and overall needs). Can we give them what they need?
We need to give them what they need to get back from them what we need! This is true for low energy dogs to high energy dogs. There are dogs that need several hours of exercise a day combined with the appropriate mental stimulation to be happy. There are also dogs that are couch potatoes and happy with a stroll in the neighborhood. My dogs are high energy dogs! They are from working breeds. They are not working dogs, but they still either need a job or the right combination of exercise and mental stimulation that addresses their needs, so they can live full lives.
High energy working dogs who are not intended for a job and are not in a house that is providing them with what they need, to feed their drive, and what they were bred for, will find or create a job to satisfy their needs. They will likely become destructive out of frustration, pent up emotions and excess energy which creates unwanted behaviors and responses. If they are not destructive they become depressed. It's our responsibility to give them what they need, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!
I've always had dogs from working breeds, and that works for me. I know what I am in for; I am a high energy person. I know how to give them what they need and for me this is very rewarding and increases the richness in my life. If you have a dog that is from the working breeds but they are not going to be working dogs, you still have the responsibility to fulfill their needs. It's in their genetics and makeup. It's who they are! We chose them.
Loving our dogs = affection, praise & calm assertive guidance, exercise, appropriate mental stimulation for their needs, socialization etc.
When our dogs know what's expected of them, ONLY after we have met their needs, will they give us what we need. It's give, take and connection. Giving them our all. They give us their all.